Indoor climbing has come a long way since the first gym opened in the United States in 1987. Located in Seattle, Washington, the Vertical Club was housed in a modest warehouse where climbers could train during work breaks or on rainy days. Its walls were rudimentary by today’s standards: actual rocks epoxied to concrete on one side and the earliest plastic holds—tiny and uncomfortable—scattered across wooden panels on the other.
Fast forward to today, and climbing gyms are ubiquitous. From fitness centers to universities, even cruise ships, indoor climbing has become an integral part of the sport’s landscape. The industry has seen major advancements, not just in facilities but also in the art of route-setting, which has transformed from a rudimentary task into a refined, full-time profession requiring creativity and precision.
Route-Setting as an Artistic Craft
Modern route-setting involves far more than attaching holds to walls. It’s a craft blending physical challenges with visual appeal, making each route a unique experience for climbers. For Luke Kearns, a professional route-setter from Boulder, Colorado, route-setting is as much about aesthetics as it is about functionality. With nearly a decade of experience at the Boulder Rock Club, Kearns emphasizes the importance of creating visually appealing and engaging climbs.
Kearns prefers using large holds and often sticks to a single brand for consistency within a route. His philosophy is to design climbs that are intuitive at the start, gradually increasing in difficulty and culminating in a challenging crux. “A high crux and a tough finish make for a perfect gym route,” he says.
Interestingly, Kearns doesn’t believe indoor climbing needs to imitate outdoor climbing. Instead, he focuses on creativity, often drawing inspiration from urban shapes and industrial designs. As the founder of Ruckus Climbing, a company that produces artificial holds, Kearns designs holds that prioritize simplicity and geometry over mimicking natural rock.
Commercial vs. Competition Setting
While commercial route-setting focuses on accessibility and enjoyment for climbers of all levels, competition setting is a different ballgame. According to Kearns, setting for competitions is “as close as you can get to producing a piece of art.” Competition routes must be visually striking, intellectually engaging, and technically demanding, requiring setters to push their creative boundaries.
A Methodical Approach: Justen Sjong’s Six Steps
Another seasoned route-setter, Justen Sjong, brings nearly 20 years of experience to the craft. Based in Louisville, Colorado, Sjong has worked in climbing gyms across the U.S. and has set routes for high-profile competitions. While some view route-setting as a purely creative process, Sjong approaches it as a logical and methodical task, breaking it down into six steps:
1. Choosing the Wall Section
Sjong begins by selecting a wall section with minimal existing holds, ensuring a clean canvas for his design. He then decides on the type and size of holds that will define the route’s difficulty.
2. Selecting the Holds
To maintain consistency in difficulty, Sjong selects 30% more holds than he needs, all roughly the same size. He often incorporates large “feature” holds, which are visually appealing and add complexity to the climb. “Bigger holds are more attractive from a distance,” he explains.
3. Organizing the Holds
Before attaching holds to the wall, Sjong lays them out on the ground in three rows:
- Left-hand holds
- Right-hand holds
- Ambidextrous holds (for matching).
This step allows him to visualize the sequence before climbing ladders or ropes to install the holds.
4. Attaching the Holds
Using the sequence he envisioned, Sjong screws the holds onto the wall. His extensive experience enables him to make quick decisions during this phase, keeping the process efficient.
5. Adding Foot Holds
Foot placement is critical to a route’s flow, and Sjong pays meticulous attention to this detail. If he wants climbers to pull with their feet, he uses positive holds with good grip. For routes requiring precise footwork, he opts for small or sloping footholds that encourage downward pressure.
6. Testing and Fine-Tuning
Sjong tests each route by climbing it twice. The first climb is a continuous ascent to assess overall flow and challenge. During the second climb, he fine-tunes the route, swapping or adjusting holds to ensure the climb feels natural and balanced.
The Evolution of Climbing Holds
One of the most significant advancements in route-setting has been the evolution of climbing holds. Early holds were uncomfortable and limited in design, but today’s holds come in countless shapes, sizes, and textures. Companies like Kearns’ Ruckus Climbing produce holds that cater to specific route-setting styles, whether for beginner-friendly climbs or advanced competition problems.
Blending Art and Logic
Route-setting is a unique combination of art and science. It requires not only an understanding of climbing mechanics but also an appreciation for the visual and tactile aspects of a route. Whether setting for commercial gyms or elite competitions, route-setters like Kearns and Sjong continue to innovate, pushing the boundaries of what indoor climbing can offer.
From its humble beginnings in the 1980s to the highly creative and professionalized field it is today, route-setting has become an integral part of the climbing world, shaping how climbers experience the sport and inspiring countless new enthusiasts to take on the challenge of the walls.